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By: KRISTA REESE
The Atlanta Journal Constitution
Thursday, March 13, 2003
All-American Fare, Soups Right Touch at Marietta Diner
Why are diners so all-American? Is it the bandstand-style oldies? The flag-waving menu? The hustling wait staff? The smell of sizzling cheeseburgers and the sight of whipped cream and cherries on a banana split?
That's all a part of it, but to me, the most American things about the Marietta Diner include the Greek Owner, who lists spanikopita, moussaka and souvlaki among the patty melts and scrambled eggs.
It's the young Russian waitress, who snaps gum and sprints between orders, listens when she asks how you like your meal and nods appreciatively when you say it's all good.
It's the multihued diners, huddling in smoky wreaths, nursing cups of coffee long into the lonesome night, like Edward Hopper's famous diner painting "Nighthawks."
Most of all, it's the  glorious free trade of it all, a successful business built on good food and service, a place where just about anyone who's willing to work can find a toehold into the American dream. Even late on weeknights, the parking lot is jammed, and the crowd is about as interesting a cross section of humanity as you're likely to find in these parts.
They all know anyone who can't find something good to eat among the hundreds of items on this menu is beyond hope. But what sets the Marietta Diner apart from many others (including its turquoise-and-chrome clone, the Atlanta Diner, on North Druid Hills Road) is in addition to good fries, eggs and burgers, you are also going to find four housemade soups daily. Split pea I sampled was thick and velvety, topped with housemade croutons browned in olive oil.
Beyond your basic breakfast-anytime dishes, you'll find Athenian omelets, with souvlaki (grilled, marinated beef), tomato and feta cheese and thick country grits and a biscuit(flaky, but unfortunately, cold).
The real eye-opener was lamb chops special, a huge serving of tiny, well-cooked New Zealand lamb chops encircling mildly garlic mashed potatoes, their tips browned under the broiler, with a side of tender sauteed spinach. WIth the house salad (iceberg, cabbage, julienned carrots), it's a bargain at $18. You can even get a glass of wine with dinner, and the strawberry cheesecake is the fulffy variety topped with fresh-tasting berries.
This meal was so good, I'd be willing to try almost any of the specialties -- veal chops, portobello ravioli, shrimp Creole. But as most of this crowd knows, that's all just gravy. A diner is American Food 101, where you learn the basics. The Marietta Diner has them down pat.
Food
Home-style cooking |
Service
Quick and to-the-point |
Setting
Shiny retro-style diner with lots of turquoise, flashing lights and old-time rock 'n'roll. |
Hours
Open 24 Hours Mondays-Sundays. Lunch Specials: 11:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Monday-Thursdays. Dinner Specials: 4:00 p.m. - 2. a.m. Saturdays- Sundays. |
Price Range
Breakfast and lunch, $3-$10. Dinner entrees,$5-$20. |
Credit Cards
All major credit cards except Discover. |
Recommended Dishes
House-made soups, such as split pea; lamb chops with mashed potatoes; Athenian omelet; strawberry cheesecake. |
Wine List
Limited to about eight labels. |
Reservations
Accepted. |
Children
Kid's Menu. |
Parking
On-Site. |
Wheelchair Policy
Yes |
Smoking Policy
Only in designated areas |
Noise Level
Moderate |
THE RESTAURANT SCOUT RATING SYSTEM
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No Forks
Do not bother. |
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Good:
Worth checking if you're in the area. |
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Very Good
Could become neighborhood fave. |
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Excellent:
A destination no matter where you live. |
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